Kapali Çarsi, the Grand Bazaar, is Istanbul’s famous shopping destination for tourists from around the world, the ultimate Oriental shopping experience. Located adjacent to Sultan Ahmet, around the corner from The famed Blue Mosque, Haggia Sophia and Topkapi Palace, the Grand Bazaar employs around 26,000 people and hosts between 250,000 and 400,000 visitors daily. A grand cacophony of sounds, scents and colors populated by gaily dressed visitors from all corners of the earth gaily flock to this extravaganza of Istanbul offerings.
Head away from the Grand Bazaar on a stroll down to the waterfront; blue waters, inviting streets, terracotta roofs, ships swaying at anchor all combining for a picture post card view. Stop for a nice cup of Starbucks Coffee or get some fresh squeezed juice from a street vendor, use your new Selfie stick to get a picture!
Yet right down the street, past the bright umbrellas, under the flags, being careful to not step on the refugees on the sidewalks, is the Kumkapi Removal Center. You can walk down the narrow street with your shopping bags full to the fine dining of the Kumkapi Fish Restaurants, oblivious to the detainees in the windows desperate for a glimpse of a family member, friend or just simply kind face. This is Istanbul tourist reality in the midst of the greatest refugee crisis of our time.
Look up, through the leafy branches and fluttering fancy pigeons, watching you with despair, a young mother and her toddler getting some fresh air- at the window grill. Below them the men, also watching you, as they wait, wait for the lawyer who never comes, the UNHCR representative who never arrives, the friend bringing a tiny bit of hope. Or, continue your happy walk, as that is what Istanbul is counting on, like an old street whore, that the shiny baubles and bright colors will distract you from seeing the reality of despair.